Life will pass me by if I don’t open up my eyes – Avicii
The seats were weird. Awkward really. Too low and slanted forward. I was wearing a fake gold chain and had a wig in my pocket. Ilene was sweating and smelled like burnt hair.
Two girls sat across from us. Both blondes.
Sunlight hit their eyes. Wizard eyes. One pair soft and kind. The other pair big and bright. Both pair dazzling blue. Eyes that have seen more than 99% of the world. More than me, and, more than you.
We were crammed in a small booth outside a café in Milan, Italy. It was day two of a five-day celebration for my friend Garrett who had finished going to every country in the world. Seventy-five people from around the world showed up. Two sat across from us. An Australian and a Slovakian.
They are two females who have traveled to 192 countries and only have five left to finish every county in the world. That’s a lot of math.
Rach, the Australian, doesn’t take naps. Marty, the Slovakian, is the negotiator. They met in 2008 and decided to go to every country in the world over coffee one morning.
“Why all the countries in the world,” I asked.
“We were drinking coffee one morning and Marty said I wonder how many countries are in the world,” Rach said.
“So, we Googled it.”
They found out there are 197 recognized countries in the world. Then they wondered if any women had tried to go to every country in the world.
So, they Googled it.
For 10 years Rach and Marty worked for a travel company. The kind that takes groups overland to wild places. Marty was the tour leader. Rach was the chef. Marty is blonde and a little unassuming. Rach is blonde and is a bit more assuming.
“We had a good time for a decade. We got paid to party. We did all-nighters after all-nighters…18 countries in 47 days. She cooked. I talked,” Marty smiled. She smiles a lot. And, easily.
“What is your take on love in different parts of the world,” I asked because, you know, love.
“People give up too easily these days,” Rach said.
Or don’t even try, I thought.
Rach doesn’t like the spotlight. Marty is brilliant in the spotlight. Rach is a bit quieter. Marty has never met a stranger.
“What is the best dish you cook,” Ilene asked Rach.
“Pasta, a nice carbonara. From scratch. Always.”
“Where is the best street food? Do you ever get sick,” I followed.
“Never get sick. The best street food is easy, Thailand. Second best is Mexico,” Marty said.
They worked for two years saving money and planning. They figured $50 a day budget might work. It would have to include food, visas, travel, accommodations, and disasters.
Many crazy countries require fixers or guides. You can’t just roll up and wander in. Places like central Africa, North Korea, Iraq, Yemen, Libya, Alabama. They had no idea these people existed or how to find them. So, they winged it.
One time they were going from Liberia to Sierra Leone and were asked for some bullshit vaccination at the border. A meningitis vaccination.
“We don’t need this,” Marty insisted.
They went back and forth with the official. Eventually, Marty put on her diplomatic hat and thanked them for taking public safety so seriously. She confused him so much he let them through accidentally. Crisis avoided.
“We have never paid a bribe,” they said casually.
“What? Impossible,” I said quickly. I can’t tell you how many bribes Garrett and I paid traveling through Africa alone. Hundreds.
Two pretty girls roaming around the world, crossing hellish borders by foot, traveling disastrous roads riddled with fake roadblocks demanding money, and never paid a bribe? It seems impossible.
“We decided in the beginning, we would not pay bribes,” Marty said.
God help them.
“How many times have you wanted to quit,” Ilene asked.
“Maybe once or twice in West Africa,” Rach said.
“We were waiting on Nigerian visas and had been in West Africa forever…riding in shared taxis for 14 hours a day…popping malaria pills which are horrible for your body. We were living off baguettes and sardines because you can’t get your hands on any real food. It takes a toll. You just want to quit,” Marty said defeated.
They capture their travels on social media. However, they prefer to show the reality of travel. Posts often show them tired, hungry, frustrated, and dirty. No filters, no bullshit.
“Travel is not about pretty dresses and Bali swings. There is more to it,” They said.
“What have you learned about people,” I asked.
“99% of the world is good people. We are all the same. We all want to love our family, to eat, to have a roof. People will help you.” Rach said, “People that have the least, are willing to give the most.”
Wow.
“Have you had scary moments as women,” Ilene asked.
“Traveling as women, you have a different set of rules than men. We tried to use our disadvantages for our benefit. If we ask for help, everyone will help us. There is no power play like between men,” Marty said.
“Also, two women’s intuition is stronger than one which gives us an advantage,” Rach added.
Finally, we got into 33 questions. We are the worst at keeping things on schedule.
“Pick a number,” I said.
14.
What is the key to success for you personally?
To smile, to be happy. - Marty
Do you worry about the future?
Never. I like the term Reverse Retirement – the idea that our best years are the 30s, 40s. Don’t think that 65 is when you retire and can finally use your money. Reverse that shit. When you are old you can live a simple life, sit in an armchair, read books, drink tea. That doesn’t cost a lot of money. Use your money now. Travel now. – Rach
24. If you could interview anybody in the world who would you choose?
Tina Turner. – Rach
Are you serious?
I love her. She is a woman who has been through hell but always knew she had the talent. She beams energy and smiles. My favorite song is Simply the Best.
9. What culture is doing it wrong? Working too hard?
The United States.
People have so much stuff. When is it enough? How long do you feel fulfilled? Living with very little makes the small things count.
The girls have been traveling for years. Neither of them really has a home. Just small backpacks with a few of life’s necessities. Simple. Yet, they seem to have more joy than the rest of us.
2. What is your favorite cereal?
So, I grew up in a country called Czechoslovakia. It was a communist country. We didn’t have cereal. Do you want to see my scars? - Marty
Oh, shit I thought.
She laughed...Europeans don’t eat cereal. By the way, we don’t have scars. Westerners are so gullible.
They both left home around 18. They thought there was more of the world to see.
I never wanted to be like everyone else. I wanted to do my own thing, where I want, when I want. To live free. – Rach
There was something magnetic about the girls. Maybe their appreciation for life. They truly seem to live in the moment without worrying about the future. Humble, kind, simple, and alive. Radiantly alive.
“I can’t get past your eyes,” I said. They both have wild blue eyes. I had been staring at them the entire time.
“People always stare at our eyes. They call them wizard eyes,” Rach said.
Wizard eyes. Two girls with eyes that have seen the entire world. The hardships, the love, the people, and the places.
“Looking up at Mount Everest, it took my breath away. It wasn’t just the mountain, it wasn’t just the day, it was everything that lead to that moment,” Rach said with her wizard eyes.
In the end, they want to inspire other women to travel and see the world. They want to inspire us to live a good life. That happiness is not found in stuff, things, promotions, and corner offices. Happiness is staring up at Mount Everest.
They told us to find moments that take our breath away. Moments that remind us life will pass us by if we don’t open up our eyes.
Our wizard eyes.
Trey
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